Frequently Asked Questions

• Prioritize safety by wearing safety goggles and gloves when charging batteries.
• Regularly inspect and maintain water levels and connections, especially in hot weather.
• Recharge batteries immediately after discharge or at least within the same day.
• Fully charge a battery before storing it.
• Always use batteries of the same make, model, and manufacturing code.
• Ensure the battery cable is properly sized for the battery system.

A lead-acid battery can produce hydrogen gas when overcharged. Inadequate ventilation can cause a flammable concentration of hydrogen gas to accumulate, which, if ignited by a spark, can result in an explosion, damaging the battery and surrounding area.

Testing a battery accurately requires the right equipment. Start by fully charging the battery. After removing any surface charge, measure the voltage with a digital multimeter; it should be above 12.65 volts for a fully charged battery. If it reads 10.5 volts, the battery may have a faulty cell. Use a hydrometer to check each cell’s specific gravity, which should be between 1.265 and 1.280. Significant differences or readings below 1.225 indicate the battery needs recharging before further testing. For sealed batteries, check the built-in hydrometer, but remember that issues may be in cells not covered by the indicator. For a comprehensive test, consider using a load tester or consulting a professional.

A severely discharged battery (e.g., below 7 volts) may not charge with some chargers. In such cases, a professional may be needed. Some chargers can handle very low voltages, but the battery may have high internal resistance due to sulfation, which can prevent effective charging.

Vehicle alternators can recharge a battery if it’s not deeply discharged. For deeply discharged batteries, use an automatic or “smart” charger with multiple charging stages suitable for different battery types (e.g., Wet, Calcium, AGM, Gel). Before charging, check the electrolyte levels and top up with distilled water if necessary. Connect the charger leads correctly and only turn on the charger once connected. Monitor the battery during charging to prevent overheating or overcharging. If a battery has a faulty cell, the charger may not reach the desired voltage, so handle with care to avoid potential explosions.

Keep cable connections clean and tight, including the earth cable. For batteries with removable caps, check the water level every six months and more frequently as the battery ages. Use distilled water to avoid impurities and avoid overfilling cells. Prevent corrosion by ensuring clean terminals and applying protection like grease or battery terminal spray. Felt washers and petroleum jelly can also help.

Sulfation occurs when the battery voltage drops below 12.4 volts, causing sulfur molecules in the electrolyte to coat the battery plates. This can prevent the battery from recharging or delivering current. Common causes include infrequent use, lack of maintenance charging, low electrolyte levels, or parasitic drains. Maintenance chargers can help prolong battery life by preventing sulfation.

• Batteries sit too long between charges, as little as 24 hours before damage can be done.
• Battery is not used regularly and has no maintenance charger.
• Low electrolyte level, battery plates exposed to air will sulphate.
• Parasitic drain in the vehicle is constantly flattening the battery

Batteries can be dangerous if not handled properly. Hydrogen gas produced during charging is highly explosive. Avoid sparks, flames, or cigarettes near batteries. Wear safety goggles and a face shield, and never lean over a battery during charging or testing. In case of acid contact with eyes, flush immediately with water. Use caution with tools and ensure proper lifting techniques due to the weight of batteries.

As a member of the Australian Battery Industry Association (ABIA), Battery’s 2 Go is responsible for battery recycling. Drop off your used batteries at our location for proper recycling. Batteries should never be disposed of with household waste. We recycle batteries by grinding them, neutralizing the acid, and separating the plastics from the lead for reuse in new batteries.

Check the replacement battery against the existing one to ensure proper fit. Use a backup device to preserve power to the vehicle's computer during the swap. Turn off all accessories, remove the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal and battery hold down. Clean any corrosion from the battery tray with baking soda and water. Place and secure the new battery, clean the terminals, and reconnect the terminals, with the positive terminal first. Apply corrosion protection as needed.

• Check the replacement battery against the existing one for proper size, hold down, terminal configuration, cranking capacity, and bonnet clearance.
• Use a backup device to preserve power to the vehicle's computer during the swap.
• Ensure all accessories are switched off in the vehicle.
• Remove the negative (-) terminal first.
• Remove the positive (+) terminal and battery hold down.
• Inspect the battery tray for corrosion and clean it with baking soda and water if necessary.
• Place the new battery in the tray and ensure it is level.
• Clean the inside of the terminals with a wire brush and remove any corrosion.
• Replace the battery hold down and ensure the battery is secure.
• Reconnect the positive terminal first and tighten it.
• Reconnect the negative terminal last and tighten it.
• Avoid over-tightening or hammering terminals onto the battery as this can damage the posts.

Jumpstarting can be risky, so if you're unsure, contact roadside assistance or someone experienced.

• Check your owner’s manual—some manufacturers don’t allow jumpstarting, and the battery may not be under the bonnet; look for jump start terminals.
• Turn off the ignition in both cars.
• Connect the red (positive) cable to the positive battery post of the dead car.
• Connect the other end of the red (positive) cable to the positive battery post of the live car.
• Connect one end of the black (negative) cable to the negative battery post of the live car.
• Find an unpainted metal part of the dead car’s engine (the engine manifold is a good spot) and connect the other end of the black (negative) cable there.
• Start the engine of the live car.
• Attempt to start the dead car. If it doesn’t crank, wait 2-3 minutes and try again.
• If it still doesn’t crank, check all connections.
• Once the dead car starts, disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection.

Battery lifespan varies depending on several factors including usage frequency, charging and maintenance practices, temperature, and application. Modern vehicles with increased energy demands tend to have shorter battery life.

Usage and Charging: Batteries last longer when used regularly or charged frequently. Vehicles with constant electrical drains, even when off, can deplete the battery and shorten its lifespan if not regularly used

Electrical Accessories: Modern vehicles often have numerous electrical accessories that add strain to the battery, affecting its longevity.

Vehicle Locking: For modern vehicles, especially luxury models, locking your car is crucial. Many vehicles keep computers and accessories active until the car is locked, even in a garage. Locking the car helps improve battery life.

Marine batteries are designed to handle small electrical loads and are considered "hybrid" batteries. They offer extra resistance to vibration and feature dual terminals for adding additional accessories.

These are all variations of lead-acid batteries, each with unique characteristics:

• Wet Cell Batteries: Available in serviceable and maintenance-free types. Both are filled with electrolyte:
  • Serviceable Wet Cell: Features removable caps for regular electrolyte checks and allows specific gravity testing with a hydrometer.
  • Maintenance-Free Wet Cell: Sealed for life, typically calcium-based, with a built-in hydrometer indicating charge in one cell. Water levels do not need maintenance.
• AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Batteries: The electrolyte is absorbed in glass mats between the plates rather than freely flooding them. Known by various names like “dry cell,” “sealed lead acid,” and “non-spillable,” AGM batteries are often preferred over Gel batteries for many applications.
• Gel Batteries: Contain a gel-like, immobile electrolyte. While they are still available, AGM batteries are increasingly replacing them. Gel batteries require different charging voltages compared to conventional batteries. For deep cycle use, a charger designed specifically for AGM or Gel batteries is recommended, though a regular charger can be used for one-time recharges with close monitoring to avoid overheating.

There are two main types of lead-acid batteries: Starter (engine cranking) and Deep Cycle (for caravans, dual battery systems).

• Starter Battery: Designed for delivering quick bursts of energy to start an engine. It has more plates with a larger surface area to provide a high electric current for short periods. The plates are thinner and have a different material composition.
• Deep Cycle Battery: Designed for sustained energy delivery over longer periods. It has thicker plates and can endure numerous discharge cycles. While it provides less instant power compared to starter batteries, it excels in long-term energy supply.

Using a starter battery for deep cycle applications is not recommended, as its plates are more prone to warping and shedding active material, which can significantly reduce the battery's lifespan or lead to sudden failure due to shorted cells.

Hybrid Batteries: These combine characteristics of both starter and deep cycle batteries, offering a middle ground between the two types.

Yes, you can start your engine with a deep cycle battery, but it's not recommended for applications primarily focused on starting. Deep cycle batteries provide less burst energy compared to starter batteries and generally offer fewer cranking amps for the same size. Therefore, while they can start an engine, they may not be as effective as a dedicated starter battery.

Yes, you can store your batteries on a concrete floor.

Previously, older batteries with hard rubber cases could experience electrical conduction through the container when stored on concrete, due to the porous nature of the cases and the conductive properties of moist concrete. However, modern batteries are encased in polypropylene, which prevents this issue.

All batteries self-discharge over time, whether stored on concrete or elsewhere. Self-discharge occurs due to internal chemical reactions that reduce the battery's charge without any connection between the terminals. The rate of self-discharge depends on the battery type (calcium and AGM batteries self-discharge more slowly than conventional ones) and the ambient temperature (batteries discharge faster at higher temperatures).

Cold Cranking Amperes (CCA) is a standard for measuring a battery's performance, specifically its cranking capacity in cold conditions. CCA indicates the number of amperes a lead-acid battery can deliver at -18°C (0°F) for 30 seconds while maintaining at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). This measurement helps assess the battery’s ability to start an engine in cold temperatures.

These terms all measure a battery’s cranking amperes but at different temperatures, affecting performance:

• Cold Cranking Amperes (CCA): Measures performance at -18°C (0°F). It indicates the battery’s ability to start an engine in cold temperatures.
• Cranking Amperes (CA) / Marine Cranking Amperes (MCA): Both measured at 0°C (31°F). These are used for general cranking performance and marine applications.
• Hot Cranking Amperes (HCA): Measured at 26.7°C (80°F). It reflects the battery’s performance in warmer conditions.

For example, a battery rated at 600 CCA would typically have around 750 CA (MCA) and 900 HCA.

In Australia, CCA is the most commonly used rating for battery comparison. However, be aware that different manufacturers may use varying standards, making direct comparisons challenging.

Reserve Capacity (RC) is measured in minutes and indicates how long a fully charged battery, at 27°C (80°F), can discharge 25 amps before the voltage drops below 10.5 volts. It reflects the battery's ability to power electrical systems when the alternator is not functioning or during extended periods of high demand.

Amp Hour (AH) is a rating commonly used for deep cycle batteries. It indicates the amount of charge a battery can deliver over a period. For example, a 100AH battery should provide 5 amps per hour for 20 hours.

Peukert’s Law explains that a battery’s available capacity varies with the discharge rate. A battery discharged quickly will deliver fewer amperes compared to one discharged at a slower rate.

A 12-volt battery is considered flat when its voltage drops significantly below its nominal level. To accurately assess this, the battery should be tested when the engine is off and no loads are connected. Allow the battery to rest for at least 12 hours to remove any surface charge, or turn on your high beams for about one minute to clear the surface charge before measuring the voltage. A fully charged 12-volt battery should typically read around 12.6 volts or higher.